Calligraphy cartridge pens are readily available in most good stationers and are
ideal for the beginner. A booklet is often included giving instructions on how to
use them and they usually take standard cartridges. Most sets will also include a
variety of interchangeable nibs in different sizes.
The ink used is not so dense as bottled ink and has a more watery appearance, but
this can work just as well, visually, as the bottled variety. Cartridge pens work
consistently and there is none of the complication involved in the use of a steel
nibbed pen and ink.
Calligraphy nibs and holders, more commonly called ‘dip pens’, (see diagram at the
top of this article) can also be purchased in most good stationers and are relatively
inexpensive. Click here for a selection of Calligraphy Pens. See the ‘Ink’ page for
how to load ink into your dip pen - not all of them are best dipped into the ink!
There are numerous brands of nib available including: Automatic Pens, Mitchell &
Gillott, Speedball, and Brause. My own preferences are for Williams & Mitchell Roundhand
nibs and the Automatic pens.
For the Williams & Mitchell Round Hand nibs you will also need a small brass ink
reservoir and a holder (see picture at top) - probably stored near each other in
the shop. Not all nibs require a reservoir so it is best to check before you leave
the shop. (Pictured L to R: Williams & Mitchell Round Hand steel nibs sizes 1 and
3; brass reservoir; italic nib. ::Click for larger image.)
The nibs are small and often stored in small plastic drawers and, as a consequence,
can sometimes become damaged. I inspect the nibs I am about to buy very closely for
any roughness, bends, or excess metal.
New calligraphy nibs are usually coated with lacquer to protect them. Pass them briefly
through a flame or wash them with mild detergent to remove this protective coating.
The pen holder has special grips to take the nib and you need to push the nib into
the grips in the end of the holder before you slide the reservoir onto the back of
the nib (see diags.). It should end up approximately +/- 2mm from the writing edge
of the nib.
The reservoir holds the ink and controls the flow. For a faster flow, slide it toward
the tip of the nib and to slow it down (as with thin inks) slide it back up the nib.
Made of brass, a soft metal, you can carefully bend it with your fingers, if it is
too tight or too loose, so that it holds better.
Other nibs include (see diagram left - excuse the picture quality) calligraphy cartridge
pens, the steel nib, a spoon shaped nib for drawing, and the "Automatic Pen". There
are various types of nibs. Don't be afraid to investigate them - they're inexpensive
and you can always dispense with the ones you don't like.
The "Automatic Pen" (which isn't automatic at all) is another ideal pen for beginners
and professionals alike.
The picture (left) shows a ruling pen, a 
mapping pen, and a glass nib. The ruling
pen has a small wheel on the top which turns to open the points of the pen (right),
which means you can change the thickness of the line drawn. It will adjust down to
draw very fine lines.
Use against a rule with a strip of metal set into the edge (the strip is set above
the paper so that it doesn't drag excess ink from the nib and make an awful mess),
you can buy these from your art or stationery store, or use it on its own as a free-drawing
tool.
The mapping pen can be used to draw extremely fine lines and is ideal for the finer
points of decoration and pen drawing. The glass nib has a spiral groove running up
the length of it and these hold the ink. It is largely for decorative purposes but
works very well. Most of these types of nibs do not need to be loaded with a brush
or dropper, you can dip them into the ink.
You can also buy ready made bamboo pens, they don't hold an awful lot of ink but
they produce an effect of their own when used on smooth or rough paper. Just dip
them in the ink, write off the excess ink on a scrap of paper and away you go.
Chisel-edged paint brushes act on the same principle as the chisel-edged nib, but
have greater flexibility and hold more ink or paint. Hold it in the same way as you
hold a pen.
Take the principle further and try using a paint brush such as the ones you would
use to decorate your house with. On a large area of paper you can really go to town
with the free expression of big, bold, marks.
The bigger the marks the more you can see the difference between the thick and thin
lines and you will understand the positioning of the pen, where you begin and end
your strokes, and what happens if you manipulate the angle of the 'nib' much more.
The smaller the nib the less distinction between the strokes. Writing done quickly,
and in a controlled manner, shows movement - it 'speaks' to you - and that is what
calligraphy is all about.
Copperplate nibs (see diag.) are quite different. Designed to replicate the lettering
on plates of copper (hence its name) for printing important and decorative documents,
the nib opens when pressure is applied on the down stroke so that the stroke becomes
wider. The pressure is relieved on the up stroke so the the nib points close and
produce a fine line. Note the elbow to give flexibility when pressing down on the
nib and to help hold the correct angle for the slope of the letters.
Real Copperplate is engraved onto copper with a fine tool, the plate being fixed
to a wheel which is turned to change the angle of the writing rather than the engraver
changing the angle of his hand - as is the case with the pen. The engraver also has
to work in reverse (mirror writing) for the print to come out the right way round!
CALLIGRAPHY PENS AND NIBS
Calligraphy cartridge pens are readily available in most good stationers and are
ideal for the beginner. A booklet is often included giving instructions on how to
use them and they usually take standard cartridges. Most sets will also include a
variety of interchangeable nibs in different sizes. 
For the Williams & Mitchell Round Hand nibs you will also need a small brass ink
reservoir and a holder (see picture at top) -
The pen holder has special grips to take the nib and you need to push the nib into
the grips in the end of the holder before you slide the reservoir onto the back of
the nib (see diags.). It should end up approximately +/-
The reservoir holds the ink and controls the flow. For a faster flow, slide it toward
the tip of the nib and to slow it down (as with thin inks) slide it back up the nib.
Made of brass, a soft metal, you can carefully bend it with your fingers, if it is
too tight or too loose, so that it holds better.